News

In Search of Fresh Air

By Nikki McLeod

Article published in the SES Taiwan Teachers Newsletter, March 2004

Have you ever been to Chuifen? If not, you should, if you have, you'll know what I'm taking about. Although it sounds like there's not much to do there, there is more than enough to keep you busy for a day and it's really worth the trip!

Chuifen is a little town in the hills, north east of Taipei, with an amazing view of Fulung bay. The hills are dotted with temples, quaint teahouses and old houses whose traditional architecture has been preserved. It's really pretty.

The town originally became famous because people found gold there, but when the gold dried up, the town died. In the 80s it was made popular after Hou Xiao Xian chose it as his location to shoot his film "City of Sadness". Legend has it that originally nine families lived there, and worked together as a small community. The families would take turns getting supplies for the community, hence the name, Chuifen: nine parts.

Chuifen is really quaint, dotted with teahouses. You can sit and sip any imaginable flavour of tea there and absorb the incredible view of the ocean from high up in the hills. We went on a drizzly grey day, but still had a great view. I can imagine it's spectacular on a clear day.

When you've had your fair share of tea there are a lot of art galleries, souvenir shops and a colourful market. The shops are reasonably priced, in fact some deals are too good to be true, and so it's a great place to do some shopping for the family before you head home. There are beautiful crafts and fantastic pottery. If you're looking for traditional tea pots, this is your place. The choice is a little overwhelming though! Amongst the interesting shops and stalls, in an alley near the market, I stumbled upon a theatre mask museum of sorts. The owner has the most amazing collection of masks, defiantly worth a visit.

They have an amazing selection of traditional tasty treats, and since we went just before the moon festival, we saw every flavour of moon cake. It was a rather busy weekend, as I'm sure it'll be on any long weekend. When looking for a restaurant, be careful, some restaurants near the main road are a tourist trap. Their prices are really exaggerated, but remember, you're in Taiwan and there's always a cheap decent meal about. In fact, you could easily find one with a free tea and ocean view!
Nikki McLeod

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