News

First Impressions of Taiwan

By Kim Glassett

Article published in the SES Taiwan Teachers Newsletter, April 2004

My first impression of Taiwan upon immediate arrival is somewhat of a blur to me now. At the time, my mind was more concerned with questions like, 'Will my manager be here to meet me?' and 'Where will I be sleeping tonight?'. Exhausted, but relieved to be on the ground after such a long flight, I was quickly reassured to the former as soon as I reached the arrivals gate. The latter, however, was yet to be discovered.

Saual Keh Hotel, aka The Love Hotel, where all new recruits of Shane stay during their week of training, doesn't look much from the outside. In fact, unless you look up, where a big sign confirms that it is actually a hotel, you couldn't be blamed for not noticing the building altogether. It's situated down a small alley on Roosevelt Rd, just a 5 minute walk from the Shane Head Office. From my initial notion of the exterior of the hotel, I wasn't expecting much from the room itself. Therefore, when I walked in, I was pleasantly surprised by how clean and oriental-looking it was! The ceilings are low, as are the beds, but the carved patterns on the ceiling and furnishings give the rooms a slightly opulent feel. There are no windows, or very tiny ones, in most of the rooms. And the shower can be a little problematic if you're over four feet tall. One feature I found especially bizarre was the huge mirrors. The whole right wall of my room was just one large mirror and it's pretty much the same for all the rooms. There is even a room that has a round bed! Perhaps one can begin to see where the nickname, 'The Love Hotel' comes from... Yet, despite its reputation, it was a very comfortable place to stay and provided me with all the comfort and security I needed in my first week in Taiwan.

The streets of Taiwan are full of vendors, selling all kinds of strange-looking and smelling foods. Tofu is an especially popular food here and you can buy it in many forms. One of my most memorable first impressions of Taiwan is walking down a street in Taipei on my second day and getting a waft of the most rancid odour. For a while, I thought it was just the streets of Taiwan, but I soon came to realise it was a type of tofu, appropriately referred to as 'stinky tofu'. It was a relief to know that this awful stench was not Taiwan's general odour and was merely just a food. The odour itself is practically indescribable; it's a pungent, rather rotten smell and can make you gag if you're unfortunate enough to walk past a stinky tofu stand. For people new to this kind of 'aromatic experience', a good tip when you smell it (and, believe me, you will know it when you smell it) is to hold your breath and walk as fast as you can.

One thing I found bizarre about Taiwan is how many scooters dominate the streets. I knew the scooter was a popular method of transportation, what I didn't expect was how popular. The streets are much wider in Taiwan and Taiwanese drivers, car or scooter, like to fill every available space possible. So, for a pedestrian crossing the street at a red light, the many revving scooter engines, waiting for the green light, can seem rather intimidating and aggressive.
What else surprised me was how a scooter can act as the Taiwanese alternative to a family car! It's quite usual to see a scooter with one person driving and one person on the back, but there have been times when I've seen whole families on a scooter. Usually with a parent driving and the other parent on the back with a child on their lap and then a small child where the driver's feet go. As I mentioned earlier; the Taiwanese like to fill every available space possible!

Perhaps a comforting thing for potential teachers coming to Taiwan to know is that not everything here is completely foreign. Certain Western establishments such as Starbucks, Pizza Hut and McDonalds (yes, it does taste just like home), have a reassuring presence here. I found, at the beginning, when I was more prone to homesickness, that I could find a little 'taste of home' at these places when needed. I also discovered Carrefour; a huge chain store full of everything and anything you could possibly need; clothes, furniture, music, electronic goods, food – it has it all! In our first week in our new apartment, my flatmate and I were desperate to make our apartment more homely and comfortable. We found everything we required in Carrefour; just enough bits and bobs to give the apartment the few home comforts that were needed. There were huge selections and everything was reasonably priced.

Everybody talked about the culture shock I would get coming to Taiwan. But, I found that my real culture shock came, not in the transition from East to West, but in the transition from Taipei to Shinying. Due to the big city vibe in Taipei and its strong Western influence, it's a smoother shift from the West to the Orient. The scooters, neon strip lights and street vendors all remind you that you're somewhere in the Orient. But, you don't have to go far for a little slice of the West.
So, when I moved from the hustle and bustle of convenient, big city Taipei to the somewhat humble, slow, almost-moving-backwards pace of Shinying, that's when I got my first real taste of culture shock. Shinying is the capital of Tainan County, in the south-west of Taiwan. It's a very small town with two bars, a couple of supermarkets and a few English schools. One of the hardest things I found was how spread out everything is here. A great convenience of Taipei is that everything is so accessible. Taxis are in huge supply and, if you're short of money then there's always the MRT. There is no MRT in Shinying and you can only really find taxis at Shinying train station. Shinying is a far more rural area of Taiwan and, though we still have a couple of McDonalds, a Pizza Hut and a KFC, you're thrust into the Taiwanese way of life and definitely stand out more as a foreigner. In Taipei, it is easier to blend in and go about your business, but Shinying only has about 15 foreigners and we all know each other. Being blonde, I found it a little unnerving being stared at and considered as an 'other' by the Taiwanese folk. But, this is something that is always a little intimidating to begin with and you do get used to it, as the people get used to you.

Most of all, it's important to arrive here with an open mind. I had initially expected people to be living in shacks and to have very little contact with the outside world. So, from that point of view, I was pleasantly surprised. However, there is so much Eastern culture to absorb and, although, Taiwan has certain Western influences, it's a completely different way of life and one that is certainly incredible to experience for yourself.

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Shane English School Taiwan
6F, 41 Roosevelt Road, Section 2
Taipei, Taiwan
Tel. (02)2351-7755
Fax (02)2397-2642
info@shane.com.tw
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